THanks so much MaryDean and Melbel, great tips.

i had tried using the Vlilofix stuff for circular appliques i made, hadn't thought of it for the bigger squares, so thanks for reminding me. i had never thought of using it to keep the tiny hem in place, that would solve my presser foot problem i think, great.

i am viloflixing quilter's cotton fabric, then attempting to applique it to a stretchy knit fabric.
From what you put, are you thinking i'm viloflixing a knit fabric applique to a tee? or maybe i've read it all wrong. (i confuse myself).

The satin stitch finish looks great, i think i need to understand more about "tension" before i get that one right. Especially on stretch knit fabrics like tshirts. I can get it to happen, but with puckering, which is not what i'm after.

i am going to print out your wonderful ideas and try again, thanks again so much!