thread: Beginner applique question - re the background square

  1. #1
    BellyBelly Life Member - Love all your MCN friends
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    Jun 2004
    The Festival State
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    Beginner applique question - re the background square

    I'm wondering, if i want to attempt the most basic applique - that is ONE SQUARE of a fabric with a nice picture on it, (or a blank with another shape sewn in the middle on that square) - how do i go about hiding the raw edges of the big square?

    Am i meant to iron the crease of a tiny hem all around the square? sew that down - and if so, what do i do about the corners going bulky on me?

    sewing down a tiny hem - my sewing machine doesn't like that - bits go all skew whiff in the presser foot with a tiny hem. that is a side issue LOL.

    i had a try at the "no hem" method, where you sew the applique onto your clothing/whatever, and use satin stitch to cover up the raw edge. That was pretty problematic for me, as i was using ribbed stretchy fabric items (e.g singlets, tees) - which made me think i would try machine stitching the actual applique and then hand sew (blanket stitch by hand) the applique to the teeshirt (for example) next time.

    but getting that square to look nicely sewn? there MUST be a trick to it!

    Have you googled it?
    i've just been googling for the last hour and a half, trying to find this out. i don't think i'm entering the right search terms in, cos i get many links, none of which describe how to do, what i would like to learn.

    Appliquing with wool felt
    i love wool felt for applique, as there is no need for the hemming, but would like to be able to start using my collection of lovely quilter's cotton, so i really need to learn how to applique WITHOUT using wool felt. Justify my fabric stash ha ha.

    Appliquing with minky
    Would you treat minky the same as wool felt? or have to hem the raw edges of that? I have been trying to build up the courage to applique a monkey out of brown minky scraps for ages.

    thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Registered User

    Aug 2006
    On the other side of this screen!!!
    11,129

    I only have limited applique experience but this is what I know - when using (non-stretchy) cotton, you can use an iron-on interface like vliesofix to adhere your top layer to the bottom layer, the interface helps stop the seams from fraying. You can then go over the edges with either a blanket stitch (by hand or on your machine) or any other stitch you like like a satin stitch. A good sewing machine makes the job a billion times easier (could never do it on my old machine, can do a half-tidy job on the new one).

    In the example you gave of the square, if that's the only thing you're doing, I would iron a quarter-inch seam all the way around BUT cut a small triangle off each corner before you do, so you don't get any bulk, then pin and sew it on that way. The other thing you can think of is getting a rolled-hem foot, which turns the fabric under and allows you do a tiny little neat seam, probably not needed for this project but handy if you're ever finishing seams on open things like scarves.

    Or the other way (that quilters use) is to use what's called "needle-turn" where you sew the hem under by hand as you go.

  3. #3
    BellyBelly Life Subscriber

    Nov 2005
    Langwarrin. Victoria
    1,654

    If you don't want to satin stitch then yes you will need to hem it to give a nice finish. As Marydean says cut the corners across so that when you fold them you don get bulk in the corners as that can look nasty.....if you iron each hem you should see the corner section you need to cut off where the crease lines cross over each other...like when you make a box shape out of a sheet of cardboard.

    And if you aren't already I suggest using vlisofix or similar applique interfacing to stick the applique down first as it holds it all in place beautifully and makes stitching it so much easier....if you have vlisofixed it to a stretchy fabric it should remove most the stretch from the part where you are stitching making it so much easier to get a nice satin stitch. Satin stitch also takes practise so get a some scraps of fabric and practise....it took me ages to get it just right for my machine and then when I use my mums machine the settings need to be completely different to get te same result...you really need to practise with your own individual settings till you lean what works best for you and your machine if that makes sense.

    If you are going to hem I would suggest pressing the hem under with the iron and then applying the vlisofix to the pressed shape...this will have the effect of holding the hem in place at the same time as allowing you to fix the shape to the garment nicely....then you could just use your blanket stitch as a decorative stitch to hold it all in place permanently.

  4. #4
    BellyBelly Life Member - Love all your MCN friends
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    Jun 2004
    The Festival State
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    THanks so much MaryDean and Melbel, great tips.

    i had tried using the Vlilofix stuff for circular appliques i made, hadn't thought of it for the bigger squares, so thanks for reminding me. i had never thought of using it to keep the tiny hem in place, that would solve my presser foot problem i think, great.

    i am viloflixing quilter's cotton fabric, then attempting to applique it to a stretchy knit fabric.
    From what you put, are you thinking i'm viloflixing a knit fabric applique to a tee? or maybe i've read it all wrong. (i confuse myself).

    The satin stitch finish looks great, i think i need to understand more about "tension" before i get that one right. Especially on stretch knit fabrics like tshirts. I can get it to happen, but with puckering, which is not what i'm after.

    i am going to print out your wonderful ideas and try again, thanks again so much!